At Paris Fashion Week, Goshka Macuga’s striking installation, Salt Looks Like Sugar, emerged as the focal point of Miu Miu’s thought-provoking Spring/Summer 2025 showcase. Renowned for her inventive approach, the Turner Prize-nominated artist’s work was described by the fashion house as a “constellation of elements for deciphering the concept of truth and its representation.”
Macuga’s installation featured a conveyor belt displaying newspapers, with the controversial publication The Truthless Times adorning the venue’s walls. The atmosphere was enhanced as models, including notable figures like Willem Dafoe and Hilary Swank, walked the runway, styled like the world’s chicest office workers. This aesthetic choice suggested an intention to subtly subvert the mundanity of daily life, with knee-length dresses complemented by loose windbreakers and tube tops casually draped around waists.
In a dramatic backdrop, the phrase “Endings Unending As Future Moves To Past” loomed, evoking a sense of urgency and contemplation. Critics might argue that a fashion show is an unlikely platform for decisive commentary on the chaotic state of current affairs; however, Macuga’s installation invites a necessary dialogue that intertwines art, fashion, and socio-political discourse.
Based in Warsaw, Macuga is known for her multifaceted works, which include sculptures, installations, collages, and large-scale tapestries rich with political narratives—what she refers to as “mind maps.” Notably, her 2010 commission for the Walker Art Center delved into the cultural impact of the institution itself, reflecting her unique ability to engage with her surroundings and provoke critical thought through her art.