Next month, during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, fashion enthusiasts will turn their attention from the runway to an extraordinary auction event. On January 27, Parisian auction house Maurice Auction and London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions will host the largest-ever sale of Martin Margiela designs, featuring 270 styles from the Belgian designer’s early career (1988–1994). The auction will take place in a vacant storefront in Paris’s 11th arrondissement following a two-day public showcase starting January 25.
Every item comes from the personal collection of Angela and Elena Picozzi, daughters of Graziella Picozzi, who discovered Margiela in the 1970s. Speaking about the sale, the sisters said, “These items are an important part of fashion history that ought to be protected… We realized how important it is that Martin’s talent and vision be enhanced, studied, told, and, why not, worn.”
A Rare Glimpse into Margiela’s Beginnings
The auction’s offerings include museum-worthy ensembles, unworn garments, and rare prototypes. Highlights include a pannier bag ensemble from Margiela’s iconic Spring/Summer 1990 collection (estimated at €4,000–€6,000) and the famous curtain skirt from his Fall/Winter 1990 collection (€2,500–€3,500).
Adding to the intrigue are designs from Margiela’s lesser-known collaboration with Deni Cler in 1988–1989, as well as a complete set of hand-embellished facsimile sketches for his Autumn/Winter 1989–90 collection—expected to sell for €600–€1,000.
Margiela’s Lasting Impact
Margiela, who founded his eponymous label in 1988 after working with Jean Paul Gaultier, is renowned for his avant-garde, deconstructed designs and his preference for anonymity, which helped build his legendary status. Since retiring in 2009, his creations have become the focus of museum exhibitions, and he has pursued a successful career in fine art.
Alex Baddeley of Kerry Taylor Auctions meticulously researched and reconstructed ensembles to honor the designer’s original vision, even consulting with Margiela’s early collaborators. “There is very little documentation of his early shows,” Baddeley explained, adding that many videos from the time are lo-fi and abstract.
Event Details
The public can view these historic pieces starting January 25 at 81 Voltaire Boulevard in Paris, with the auction beginning at 11 a.m. on January 27. For fashion lovers, this sale is not just an opportunity to own a piece of history but also to celebrate the visionary legacy of Martin Margiela.
