Oliviero Toscani, the revolutionary photographer whose daring campaigns for Benetton transformed advertising into a platform for social commentary, passed away on January 13, 2025, at the age of 82. His family confirmed the news, revealing that Toscani had been battling amyloidosis, a rare and incurable disease that affects vital organs and nerves. In an emotional statement, his wife Kirsti shared, “It is with great sorrow that we announce that today, our beloved Oliviero has embarked on his next journey.”
A Passion for Photography Rooted in Milan
Born on February 28, 1942, in Milan, Toscani inherited his passion for photography from his father, a photojournalist for Corriere della Sera. He honed his craft at the University of the Arts in Zurich, where he studied photography and graphics. Toscani’s talent soon gained recognition as he collaborated with leading fashion magazines such as Vogue and GQ, capturing the essence of cultural icons like John Lennon, and Federico Fellini.
The United Colors of Benetton: Redefining Advertising
Toscani’s career reached its zenith during his tenure as creative director at United Colors of Benetton, a role he held from 1982 to 2000. His campaigns for the brand were groundbreaking, addressing pressing social issues such as racism, the AIDS crisis, and the death penalty. Toscani’s 1989 photograph of three human hearts labeled “black,” “white,” and “yellow” highlighted racial equality, while another campaign featured a priest and a nun kissing, sparking widespread controversy and bans.
Perhaps one of his most poignant works was his depiction of AIDS activist David Kirby on his deathbed, an image that humanized the epidemic and brought global attention to its devastating impact. Toscani’s philosophy was clear: “I exploit clothing to raise social issues,” he said, challenging traditional advertising norms that promised beauty and success through consumption.
Tackling Social Taboos Through Art
In 2007, Toscani ignited further debate with his No Anorexia campaign for Italian fashion brand Nolita. Featuring an emaciated Isabelle Caro, the image confronted the fashion industry’s role in perpetuating unhealthy beauty standards. Displayed on billboards during Milan Fashion Week, the campaign was banned in several countries but sparked international discourse.
Toscani also turned his lens to broader societal issues, creating campaigns that addressed road safety, violence against women, and environmental concerns. His work consistently pushed boundaries, sparking both admiration and controversy.
A Career Marred by Controversy
Despite his innovative vision, Toscani’s career was not without challenges. In 2020, Benetton severed ties with him following insensitive comments about the Genoa bridge collapse, which had claimed 43 lives. Toscani later apologized, expressing deep shame for his remarks, but the incident marked the end of his decades-long association with the brand.
Reflecting on his career, Toscani once said he wanted to be remembered “not for any one photo but for my whole work, for the commitment.” His fearless approach to photography and his unwavering dedication to addressing uncomfortable truths reshaped the boundaries of advertising and art.
